Achieving The Look
I have not even gotten to the chapter in Frederick Gorst's memoirs (Of Carriages and Kings, Thomas Crowell, New York, 1956) when he arrives at Welbeck Abbey to work for the Duke of Portland. I am only at the part where he's about 20 years old and arrives in London to take up his duties as Lady Howard's traveling footman. In addition to livery, the footmen to Lord and Lady Howard in the early 1900s were required to powder their hair:
"It began with a shampoo and when I had soaped my hair thoroughly, instead of rinsing the soap away, I left it on my scalp and parted my hair neatly on the side. Then (fellow footman) Trowbridge took a big, thick, powder puff and doused my head with the 'violet powder' until it formed a pasty coating. After it dried, my head seemed to be covered with a white wig... Of course the purpose of this headdress was to have all the footmen look as much alike as possible and to create a picture of uniformity when we served together." (Gorst, p. 109)
The Howard dress livery for the footmen consisted of blue plush knee breeches, white stockings, pumps with silver buckles, a claret-colored, swallow-tailed coat with silver buttons, matching claret vest and white shirt with white bow tie.
I don't believe I could ever have pulled off this look, and yet I think you would agree that a group of tall and handsome young men all dressed and coiffed in this fashion must certainly have made an impression.
You may also be interested to know that 19 Rutland Gate, London, where Gorst served Lady Howard, would be sold in 1914 to an American millionaire and his wife who began extensive renovations to the house but never lived there, going down on the Lusitania. The property was subsequently sold to the 2nd Duke of Ancaster and later demolished in 1932, to be replaced by a block of flats. (Source)




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